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Writer's pictureDanielle Baker

Travel Blog: Costa Rica, Santa Teresa Oct 20 - Sept 21

Welcome, dear friends,


I thought I’d start sharing a little about our nomadic journey. Over the past year, since the release of my book Reclaiming Circle: A Guide to Hosting Women’s Circles, I’ve received many messages asking about our personal life. Initially, I felt some resistance to sharing openly, perhaps from feeling like we were navigating without a clear map, learning as we went along. Yet, as time passes, I uncover the deeper desires guiding us.


I hope that, even if you’re not looking to uproot yourself, these words can offer some inspiration, guidance, and a glimpse into both beautiful places around the world and a mother’s perspective on navigating life’s unknowns. This is a story of a family walking a largely uncharted path, blending intuition with what logically aligns.


For a long time, I would say, over and over, we’re looking for our forever home. But this quest often left us feeling trapped, as if always in search of something. We eventually learned that home is less about a place and more about a feeling we nurture within—a sense of belonging that emerges when harmony exists within the family. And by harmony, I don’t mean constant peace but a commitment to showing up for each other through all the emotions, confusion, and even loss. Home is the sense of being seen and accepted, even amidst the messiness of life.


Part of me romanticizes the idea of tribal living, and I continue to explore this topic deeply. But in my research, I’ve also come to understand that, historically, violence existed even between tribes. We still form "in-groups" and "out-groups" today, creating divisions that persist until we truly remember our shared humanity. Yet, I hold onto hope. While I see the pain and suffering in the world, I also see that we are consciously evolving. We are human, carrying the burdens and beliefs of our ancestors, but we can choose to change the narrative.


I often anchor myself with a question: How can I show up today to contribute to this awakening? I know I may not taste the fruits of this labor myself, but I hold faith that future generations, perhaps my grandchildren, will. We show up, honoring our past and nurturing a vision for the future.


Through prayer, meditation, and inner work, we create change from within—first in ourselves, then in our families, and eventually, we hope, in the world. It’s powerful work, and it’s what has brought us here, to this moment.


My Story as a Maiden

Since 2019, my family and I have been on an extraordinary journey, wandering the globe. Our adventure didn’t start with the intention of being nomadic, and we’re not the typical touristy type. We like to nestle in and get to know the land and community. Here I am, finally ready to share, inspired by the messages I get every week asking about my lifestyle, the places I’ve been, and my honest experiences. I get it—especially when traveling with a family, you want to know if there’s everything you need to feel nourished and at ease.


Let’s rewind to 2017, a pivotal time when I left a 12-year career as a nurse in the military. I had invested in land in France, restoring a property with my parents to host retreats and nurture a permaculture project. But by winter 2019, I found myself alone in a remote French valley, planning for the future. I remember it vividly: bundled in a big fur coat, sitting by an electric heater in a tiny, sealed-off room. It was cold, silent, and isolating. At that moment, I realized I needed my own retreat; burnout had crept in.


In the French summers, I would stay in a bell tent 500 meters from the main house, a place to recharge between hosting, facilitating, and cooking roles. My mom found solace in the kitchen, while I stayed out front, quietly craving solitude. One night, I booked myself a trip to Lake Atitlan, Guatemala, for a month-long metaphysics course. It turned out to be a life-changing decision: I met my partner, Ilan, and six months later, we were inseparable, expecting a baby.


With Auraya’s arrival, everything changed. My perspective on running a business in France had shifted; my energy and inspiration were taking me in a different direction. It wasn’t an easy choice, but I felt a calling toward something new. Leaving France meant saying goodbye to dreams I’d built with my family, especially my mom, who had left her home to be with me. She had hoped to retire there, to raise families together. But when I asked her if she was happy, she admitted to feeling as drained as I was. The pandemic had left us with fewer visitors, and I couldn’t take time off to rest. Despite the heartache, we found peace, choosing to follow our hearts to a new path.


So, Ilan and I set our sights on Costa Rica.


Why Costa Rica?

In 2014, I took a surf trip to Santa Teresa, and it left an unforgettable mark. When we were planning to welcome Auraya into the world, Costa Rica came up in our search for a home midwife—and, unbelievably, Ilan saw it in a meditation, too. We nearly settled in Nelson, Canada, but the pull toward Costa Rica’s tropical warmth was undeniable.


Santa Teresa, Costa Rica

In October 2020, at around 16 weeks pregnant, we arrived in Santa Teresa, I was barely showing at that point. This was the first time in nearly a decade that I’d lived with someone full-time. Ilan and I rented a cozy upstairs apartment near the town’s crossroads. For $1,800 per month, it suited a couple well, but the space quickly felt tight, and noise from neighbors became an issue.


In search of something more family-friendly, we moved just 500 meters away to a beautiful beach house—a two-bedroom space with a garden, just a five-minute walk from the beach. It was perfect for a while, but after Auraya was born, the lack of a lounge and actual windows made it less ideal, I’d wake many nights with a cockroach on my head! 


I was feeling the strain of healing from my birth and not having a space to feel cozy (full birth story here). We moved again, this time into a one-bedroom apartment just two minutes from the beach with a beautiful view of the ocean and sunset. Despite the whirlwind of relocating ten days postpartum, this cozy apartment for $2,000 per month felt like a sanctuary—a place to settle into family life with ease.



Where is Santa Teresa?

Located on Costa Rica’s Nicoya Peninsula, Santa Teresa lies within one of the world’s famed Blue Zones, regions renowned for longevity and well-being. The main stretch of Santa Teresa spans about 6 kilometers along the coast, with an array of restaurants, shops, and stunning beaches.


I loved walking in the morning with Auraya in her baby carrier, reaching the forest areas, and walking barefoot through the rich dirt, I can smell it as I recall it. Those moments were so peaceful and healing. I would listen to podcasts, and connect with my friends and family all whilst Auraya was napping.


The issue for me was the heat during the day, I was so hot and sensitive after giving birth and had a little human on me 24/7 (or so it felt) I didn’t leave the house much in the daytime until the sun began to set. There were cafes close by that we would visit, but as this area is touristy, I became overwhelmed quickly, and drew me into a state of feeling very isolated.


There were a lot of families I connected with during our 6 months there who I am still in contact with today. When Auraya was about 3 months we started a mother’s circle, which broke the feeling of isolation, yet reminded us of how raw we were. The benefits of being there were the:


  • Beach and forest walks

  • Warmth

  • Great restaurant takeaways

  • Expat community

  • Access to bodywork

  • Conscious events 


Things I didn't connect with:


  • Super busy tight road 

  • Not the cheapest place to live if renting

  • Need for a car to get along the strip

  • Overcrowded



Pregnancy and Birth in Costa Rica

Pregnancy and birth are big topics here in Costa Rica. If you’re planning a birth here, I can connect you with local women who have invaluable insights. I personally opted for a free birth but transferred to the local clinic. The ambulance arrived quickly, and while the experience differed from what I had imagined, the support was attentive and caring. Over the years, my respect and appreciation for the medical team there have only grown.


An interesting aspect of giving birth in Costa Rica is that children born there automatically become citizens. While this wasn’t our reason for choosing to give birth there, it’s a benefit that makes it easier to apply for residency, should we decide to stay longer. Do note that vaccinations are mandatory here, as is schooling, although many families find ways to navigate the system legally. So, if you’re concerned about this, don’t let it discourage you.


How to Get There

From San Jose Airport to Santa Teresa, there are several options:


  1. By Air: A 25–30 minute flight from San Jose to Tambor Airport costs $50–$100 USD per person. Ground transport from Tambor to Santa Teresa takes another 1.5–2 hours and costs $50–$100 USD.

  2. By Shuttle or Bus: Shared shuttles cost $50–$70 USD per person and take about 5–6 hours, including a ferry crossing. Private transfers range from $150–$200 USD.

  3. By Car: Car rentals cost $50–$100 USD per day, excluding ferry and gas. Driving takes around 5–6 hours.

  4. By Public Bus: Costs $10–$20 USD per person but may take 6–8 hours, with a ferry crossing.


In Costa Rica, car seats are legally required, so if you’re booking a shuttle or taxi, make sure to request them.


Accommodation

For rentals, Facebook groups or Airbnb are helpful. We ask key questions before booking:

  • Is there mold? (Tricky to spot, but it happens)

  • Can we rearrange the furniture? (We all sleep together)

  • How’s the Wi-Fi?

  • Are there phone towers nearby?

  • Who are the closest neighbors?


Prices vary by season, with apartments around $1,500 and homes with gardens costing upwards of $2,000. During the high season (December to April), rates often rise, and costs keep climbing as Santa Teresa becomes more popular.


Do I Need a Car?

We prefer not to drive. However, living without a car did have its challenges. Walking to the beach and the main street was fine, but the road could get busy and dusty. After Auraya was born, long walks during the day became uncomfortable in the heat, though sunrise and sunset strolls were lovely.


Groceries and Dining

For organic products, Green World Store has a great selection and even offers delivery. There’s also a family-run farmer’s market by Playa Carmen. Super Ronny’s supermarket has a wide range of essentials at affordable prices, though the trek can be a challenge with rough roads and heavy traffic.


Our favorite restaurants and cafes include:


  • Katana Asian Cuisine – Best ribs

  • The Roastery Coffee Shop – Best coffee

  • El Carmen Restaurant – Beachfront with great juices and pizza

  • The Bakery – Delicious meals and desserts


Air Quality

Near the beach, the air is crisp and refreshing. But on the main road, dust and vehicle pollution can be overwhelming. Online reports can provide specifics on local pollutant levels, so it’s worth checking if you have concerns.


Cost of Living

Santa Teresa’s cost of living can be on the higher side, especially compared to U.S. prices, due to its remote location and popularity with expats and tourists. Basic groceries and imported goods tend to be more expensive, and eating out can add up quickly, particularly at popular spots. Rent varies based on location, proximity to the beach, and the level of amenities you want, with prices for a comfortable family setup ranging closer to urban U.S. standards.


Kids’ Activities

Santa Teresa has a range of activities to keep little ones engaged. There’s a Montessori school in town if you’re looking for a structured learning environment for children and planning on staying long-term, and the local community offers numerous family-friendly options. One of my favorites was Zunya, a community about a ten-minute drive away with beach access, family events, and a relaxed restaurant where you can unwind by the ocean. The town has grown quickly, so it’s best to check local groups for recent updates and any new kid-friendly spots.


Wildlife & Nature

Living in Santa Teresa immerses you in a vibrant natural landscape. Monkeys are a common sight, swinging through trees near the road or along trails. You’ll often see horses roaming the fields, which is quite a unique sight for kids, and the area is also home to colorful birds and lizards. 


Ocean Water Quality

Santa Teresa’s beach is one of its main draws, but water quality can vary, especially in the rainy season. Pollution from the main road sometimes seeps into the ocean after heavy rain, which can impact the water quality. Red tide—an algae bloom that makes the water cloudy and fishy-smelling—can also affect the area and pose a risk to marine life and humans alike. My first experience with it was a surprise, not by sight but by smell; a distinct, fishy scent spread as we walked along the shore one evening. When this happens, it’s best to avoid swimming.


During the rainy season, the coast can also see a wash-up of trash along the shoreline, with everything from plastic to needles and glass. Once, I even took Auraya on my back to help pick up debris, joining other locals in cleaning up. The waves and tides tend to clear it after a few days, but it’s a stark reminder of the broader challenges facing our oceans.


Surfing and Beach Cautions

Santa Teresa is a surfer’s paradise, with waves that attract beginners and seasoned surfers alike. But caution is crucial: rip tides and rocky areas can be hazardous, and it’s easy to get caught off guard. My own experience with the unpredictable ocean came when I was pregnant and had a painful encounter with what I believe was a stingray in shallow water. The pain shot up my leg and was intense enough to make me rush to the emergency clinic, where they treated it promptly. Thankfully, we both came through fine, but it was a humbling reminder of the power of nature here.


Overall, I loved our time in Santa Teresa, but as I started to emerge from my postpartum cocoon after about six months, I began feeling the limitations of not having a car. The rough roads became overwhelming for my nervous system, and I started craving a more tranquil environment for Auraya. She was exploring the ocean, but we wanted a calmer space where she could start swimming with us. Although there was a lovely little rock pool about a 20-minute walk away, which she absolutely adored.


Still, there were parts of Santa Teresa I cherished, like the peaceful beach walks, the variety of restaurants, and the wonderful organic market run by Honey, a remarkable woman and midwife who no longer attends births but continues to be an incredible presence in the community.


For those interested, I share more about my experience in my recorded birth story, detailing the journey and what it was like to bring Auraya into the world here.


If anything within this needs updating please let me know!


Next stop: Tilaran, Costa Rica


Love, Danielle

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